John Varvatos - The Urban Romantic • Spring/Summer 2017
If the artisanal character of Provence was cast evenly over a sprawling metropolis, a fresh kind of elegance would emerge‹a complex, yet effortless muse with edges both hard and soft. This very muse inspired John Varvatos to conjure the silhouettes and textures of his Spring 2017 collection. Dubbed The Urban Romantic, the lineup merges a consistent nod to old-world craftsmanship with a full spectrum of modern menswear cues.
The Urban Romantic dwells in the city, absorbing contemporary culture at every chance, but also reveals a softer side, inspired by heritage. These narratives play through in a progression from classic proportions and treatments to creative innovations.
The collection initiates with a fresh tonal look, showcasing a lush calfskin asymmetric jacket, its surface embossed with a crocodile skin motif. A second buffed suede jacket emerges in an almond hue with a supple texture and rough-and-tumble look, followed by an asymmetric jacquard knit jacket with a multi-button closure. Layered beneath, a linen wheat-hued vest is flecked with metallic fibers for a subtle sheen and cold-dyed by hand for a vintage-inspired look.
Metallic fibers and cold-dye techniques advance into a textured linen canvas with a pick stitched pinstripe, found in an asymmetric duster jacket and oversize hobo bag. A range of ticking stripes in varied widths embody easy summer staples that reflect a thoughtful modern energy. Beneath, a button-down shirt inspired by the silk scarf lineup features a hand-printed abstract paisley, symbolic of the perfectly imperfect result the designer loves to conjure. As the collection is revealed, a satisfying blend of natural contrasts appear, merging elephant grey and tomato red with antique whites and earthy suedes.
A similarly wide spectrum of jacket silhouettes, crafted in silk, wool and linen, include a fencing jacket, one, two, three and multi- button offerings. After all, the Urban Romantic likes options. A washed suede deconstructed motorcycle jacket is merged with a shirt back, while a separate moto jacket is elongated to thigh length, creating an updated take on proportions. The jacquard tuxedo debuts in a shawl collar single-button silhouette with an abstract micro animal print.
Knitwear, crafted in cashmere-silk and linen-silk blends, is upgraded with new approaches to texture, as with a shawl collar cardigan1s cascading shoulder cable knit. Trouser silhouettes remain elongated and sophisticated, while some edge is infused into denim, as with a white jean that features a vertical zip down the thigh.
Shoes present fresh approaches to concept and construction, as with narrow-toed boots featuring tornado-style zip closures that wrap the ankle. Ring-adorned hardware brandishes distressed leather straps over hidden chains. Seamless, luxe Venetian slip-ons are underlined with embossed fleur-de-lis soles, while a ghosting technique reveals the texture of laces beneath another shoes surface.
Key bags of the season include an antique white leather tote with chocolate trim and an embossed ostrich helmet bag with a hint of military inspiration. Hardware is hand-cast in pewter, featuring signature guitar hinge buckles and artisanal distressing. Belts are hand-woven and hand-finished in rich leathers, featuring small touches that reign intrigue and whimsy into an otherwise classic masculine accessory.
The Urban Romantic demands texture, character and clothing that represents both a rich history and an ever-evolving future, all with a fresh color palette and a seamless contrast of structured and soft. With this complex muse in mind, John Varvatos has delivered yet another collection that satisfies a modern range of aesthetics, traditions and emotions for the sophisticated, modern man.
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